VOGUE COVERS 1930s April 1930 June 1930 July 1930 December 1930 March 1931 April 1931 June 1931 September 1931 December 1931 May 1932 July 1932 November 1932 August 1933 October 1933 November 1933 December 1933 March 1934 May 1934 March 1935 March 1935 October 1935 January 1936 February 1936 October 1936 September 1937 May 1937 July 1937 April 1938 November 1938 June 1939 Horst Photo September ‘39 September 1939 April 1939 June 1939 July 1939 October 1939 1930’s -caught between depression and war -King Edward abdicated -Bauhaus School of Architecture -Music and Dance Rumba, Samba, Conga then SWING -GANGSTER MOVIES -Greta Garbo, Jean Harlow, Noel Coward, Marlene Dietrich, King Kong, Charlie Chaplin, Shirley Temple, Snow White -teenage freedom -Casual Clothes born in the US -synthetics and 2 way stretch -Chanel, Vionnet, Schiaparelli, Adrian -stylish women were “SMART” Men: BUSINESS SUIT double breasted SHIRTS WITH COLLAR STAYS TIES: 4-in-hand (Windsor) BOW TIE POLO SHIRTS CARDIGANS BATHING SUIT THE ‘CALIFORNIA’ LOOK Women: DRESS IS LONG AND STRAIGHT BIAS CUT SHOULDER PADS LATE 30’S TAILORED SUITS WITH SHOULDER PADS SHIRTWAIST DRESS (CASUAL) LITTLE BLACK DRESS WITH CLIPS SHORT DINNER DRESS (BALLET LENGTH) PAJAMA PANTS FOR BEACH AND INFORMAL DINNERS SWAGGER COATS TINY HATS PERCHED OVER ONE EYE....HERSHEY KISS LIKE PLATFORMS TEEN FASHIONS GLOVES 1930s Small hats, berets, suits w/belts Cap of sleeve belt Bias cut gowns Wide shoulders Pajama pants … Palazzo pants Schiapparelli Skeleton Dress Adrian Claire McCardell Travis Banton Great Depression CREPE SOLES CORK SOLE WEDGE SLING-BACK CORD SOLED WEDGE WOOD SOLED SADDLE SHOES (OXFORDS) PENNY LOAFERS BLUE SUEDE SHOES 1940’s I.HISTORY THE WAR YEARS: U.S. involved from 1941 – 1945 1. Law restricted yardage, L-85 Regulation, used in clothing due to need for munitions production and uniform manufacture. 2. 2. German occupation put French fashion on back burner. 3. U.S. could not import clothing due to shipping blockade by Germans, and developed own manufacture. POST WAR 1. 1947 Dior came out with his “New Look” after fabric restrictions were lifted and couture again became a fashion force. 2. France – re-establishes fashion leadership. 3. 1949 Claire McCardell – 1st typical American design 4. In the News: a. NATO b. B. Berlin Blockade and the Cold War THE ARTS 1. Music: a. Big Bands b. Crooners like Crosby and Sinatra 1. a. b. Movies: Jane Russell, Betty Grable Musicals and Musical comedies II. MENS CLOTHING BODY GARMENTS 1. Business suit 2. Eisenhower jacket 3. Army coat lined in sheepskin 4. Raglan overcoat 5. Chesterfield, Ulster, Macintosh 6. ZOOT SUIT III. WOMEN’S CLOTHING: During the war: 1. Utilitarian, drab, many uniforms 2. Boxy jacket: padded shoulder, narrow waist, hip, skirt. 3. Coats: were wrap style as buttons were rationed. 4. SHIRTWAIST DRESS: the uniform of the working girl – Button front, slightly flared skirt, short sleeve, open collar. 5. OVERALLS: for working in factories. 6. PINAFORES 7. 8. a. b. c. SLACKS: acceptable for women, but only for leisure or factory. Heads: SNOOD KERCHIEFS were not rationed, so were very popular. PAGE BOY: haircut AFTER THE WAR: 1. Dior’s “NEW LOOK” re-established France as the leader a. Feminine curves, padded hips, tiny waist b. Great fullness in longer skirts, swinging petticoats 11-12 inches off floor 1. Younger set adapted it to DIRNDL SKIRT, CINCH BELTS 2. The PENCIL SKIRT – very long and very narrow, 11 inches above the floor. 3. SHORTIE COAT or TOPPER to go over suit or dress ACCESSORIES 1. Shortie gloves of white cotton 2. Hats off-face, trim or brim lower on one side 3. Shoes: a. Sensible and sturdy b. WEDGIES, CREPE SOLES c. d. e. 1. SADDLE OXFORDS, and PENNY LOAFERS, BOBBY SOX Slingback pumps and peep toes Leg make-up Cosmetics: a. Pancake makeup
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