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ESCI 130 HW 9 - Earth Revealed - Waves, Beaches, Coasts 1. Where do waves get their energy? 2. What is moving as a wave approaches the coast? 3. Describe wave mo;on in detail. 4. What is wave base? How it is determined? 5. What happens when wave base intersects the seafloor? Describe in detail. 6. What is a tsunami? Describe in detail. 7. What is refrac;on, and how does it tend to even out an irregular coastline? 8. Describe how longshore currents transport sediments along the beach face. 9. Why do beaches change from season to season? ESCI 130 10. How do dams affect beach erosion? 11. How does the moon affect the ;des? 12. How does glacial ac;vity affect sea level? 13. What is a eusta;c sea level change? 14. What is the role of the geologist in the protec;on of the coastlines? ...
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School: Purdue University

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Student's Name
Waves, Beaches, and Costs

1. Where do waves get their energy?
From the wind
2. What is moving as a wave approaches the coast?
The wave propagation slows down, but the upper part of the wave keeps going, so
the waves tip over either spilling or breaking at the shore.
3. Describe wave motion in detail.
Near the surface the water molecules move in a vertical circle. The circles they
trace become
smaller as you go deeper into the water, until the motion dies out with depth

4. What is wave base? How it is determined?
the depth at which the wave motion dies out. It is determined by the wa...

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