here is the paper
Waves, Beaches, and Costs
1. Where do waves get their energy?
From the wind
2. What is moving as a wave approaches the coast?
The wave propagation slows down, but the upper part of the wave keeps going, so
the waves tip over either spilling or breaking at the shore.
3. Describe wave motion in detail.
Near the surface the water molecules move in a vertical circle. The circles they
smaller as you go deeper into the water, until the motion dies out with depth
4. What is wave base? How it is determined?
the depth at which the wave motion dies out. It is determined by the wa...
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